First Christmas in Oman

While I was thinking about what to write about this year’s Christmas, I tried to recall what happened last year, and up until I decided to go back to my entry I could not remember anything about what happened on December 25, 2010. And you know what was funny? When I did go back to that post, I saw that I entitled that one The Christmas JG and I will Never Forget. I thought it was pretty ironic since five minutes ago, I could not remember a single memory of that day. But if you did not try to read that link, it was really a pun on my part because nothing much happened that day.

This year here in our new side of the world, it’s basically the same. Oman also being a Muslim country, does not recognize such a holiday. We did have a good Christmas party with the embassy staff a few days ago, it was simple and fun, but December 25, was solemnly spent at home, outside it was business as usual for everybody else.

Nevertheless Christmas here is also very different from that of Libya, because at least here, you kind of at least feel it, subtly, but you know it is around. Unlike in Libya, non-Muslims are free to celebrate it as they please without any hindrances from the government or the locals. In Libya, you are not allowed to decorate the exterior of your house with Christmas trimmings, (which was why I found it funny when someone gave us a huge Christmas lantern; JG and I were grateful but had no idea what to do with it afterwards).

Have I mentioned there are several English radio channels here in Oman? Their DJ’s (mostly westerners) acknowledge the coming of Christmas even play Christmas songs once in a while. Many establishments have also launched gimmicks, like raffles, and other stuff. Today I ran into a guy dressed as Santa who was giving out candies at the mall.

Groceries and department stores sold Christmas decors, one even displayed a real Christmas Pine tree, it was hella expensive but hey, I bet someone wasn’t able to resist. We on the other hand opted for the plastic kind, to which we thought was practical; after all we weren’t that crazy about celebrating. We never really did the decorating, event back home in the Philippines, where people are so crazy about the holidays, it starts as early as October. I suppose we got it this year in appreciation to the people of this country who despite not really celebrate this kind of holiday (which is also a bit ironic since this the best place to get Frankincense and Myrr) respect those of us who do, and let us experience it the best way we know how. I personally appreciate this gesture being that it is the most that we have being far away from our homelands.

Nevertheless as I said, today was a pretty quiet one for us. I woke up extra early to chat with my mom via the internet and spent the day mostly catching up on some sleep, and reading. JG and I drove his mom to church later in the afternoon (we both are not very religious people, so we stayed outside and waited until the mass ended), and capped the night playing bowling of all things. And that was pretty much it, it wasn’t so bad, it was just quiet.

A wise lady in an email I received today said that this was a “reflective Christmas” here in Oman, and added that it is “quite nice” – and I couldn’t agree more.

Merry Christmas everyone!

I couldn't think of a nice picture to put with this post so I'm just re-posting this one I took showing real Frankincense and Myrr, a famous story did say it was two of the best gifts to bring during Christmas.

Of Souqs and the One in Matrah

One of my favorite places back home in the Philippines is Quiapo and its surrounding markets, its dirt, noise, and chaos is nothing compared to the posh malls of Manila but I bask in the variety and bargain it has to offer. Plus the fact that I think that flea markets can be a central location to studying a country’s culture as well as finding great discoveries.

In the Arab world, markets are called Souqs and like in Quiapo, everything that represents a country can be found such markets. When we were in Libya my not having a car only made me visit the Old Souq a couple of times, and even so, I was truly amazed every time I visit. I am reminded of Babalhiriya in the Old Town, wherein remnants of Roman ruins can still be found in nooks and corners all around the walled city. When I stayed in Tunisia, the Souq in Djerba was not as big and as historical as in Libya but what made that one great were the friendly locals manning their stores. JG who has travelled to Turkey boasts of having visited what he believes is the biggest Souq in the world.

So it wasn’t really a surprise when I grabbed the chance to visit Muscat’s Matrah Souq. Unlike the beach, I was disappointed to find out that I lived fairly far from the said Souq. I had hoped that I would be able to visit such a place as often as I did Quiapo back home. My having a car is still not an answer to my logistical concerns as driving there can be a bit scary as I have to go through some major highways to get there. Not to mention the fact that JG discourages me to go to places wherein major possible spending may take place. But I digress…

So when the opportunity came for me to go, I hurriedly took the chance. And Matrah Souq was no disappointment. What made it stand out for me was that unlike the ones in Tripoli and Djerba, the place was really clean and orderly, plus the fact that the interior had some great detailing and furnishing including wooden ceiling panels and tainted glass ceilings which were really an impressive touch.

the ceilings of the market were decked with wood panels and tainted glass.

One of the first things that I read about Oman was that it was a country that was very much concerned about showing off their art and culture, and such designs in their souqs is to me a testament to that characteristic.

As you can see the Matrah Souq is really clean and orderly.

Like most Arab countries one of the commonly sold in their Souqs are scarves and pashminas. Ever since JG brought me my first one from Istanbul, and since living in Libya I have become a scarf/pashmina feign and now have an assorted collection and truly believes that one cannot have too many. One of the first stores we went to was manned by a young guy who was very keen on hard selling his products but did it a very personal and friendly manner that we could not help but come back and buy from him. Not to mention the fact that he gave us a good deal. I also learned a lot about such garments, as to why some of them were hella-expensive. As it turns out the pricey ones come from the wool shaved from the softest parts of a sheep like its neck and belly areas, as well as how intricate the sewed designs are. Of course I really couldn’t afford the really pretty and soft ones but was happy with my purchase nevertheless.

Something like this Pashmina costs around 30 to 40 rials which is like 4000php back home

Another major highlight that can be found in Matrah Souq are Myrrh and Frankincense made famous by the three wise men who visited the baby Jesus in the stables and brought such priceless gifts in honor of the prophesied Messiah. Aside from Gold, the two gifts that are always mentioned during Christmas were really a mystery to me. I’ve always wondered what they looked like and 20 odd years later I finally get to see some.

The one in the bigger jar is the Frankincense, and the brownish looking one is Myrrh.

So in case you don’t know Frankincense is an aromatic resin from Boswellia trees, while Myrrh is also a hydrocarbon secretion of a thorny plant.

“Religious ritual across the Mediterranean and the East depended and, in places, still depends, upon thick, sweet frankincense smoke to transport supplications heavenwards.” (http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/middle-east/oman-going-for-gold-frankincense-and-myrrh-1844723.html)

Now aside from religious practices, store owners also swear to the affectivity of burning Myrrh and Frankincense when used as a mosquito repellant.

And like all Souqs, the one in Matrah is no exemption to finding anything Arabic…

Everything Arabian plus the lamp, magic genie sold separately.